BEATRICE PEAK 5,800 M

Beatrice is a 5,800m peak located on the north side of the Charaksa Valley in the Hushe region. The summit ridge is a rather narrow complex affair and has been reached once before by a young British team in 1988. Andy Bunnage and Bob Marks made the first ascent of the peak via the Diaper Couloir, a 1,000m D+ snow and ice gully on the south flank. There are several other spectacular granite walls and spires at the eastern end of the Charaksa Glacier, close to K7. These include TDK (The Dog's Knob), first climbed by Bob Marks and John Styles in 1988 and now sporting three or four separate routes to its summit. The North Ridge of the symmetrical pyramid of Nasa (first ascent in 1988 by Andy Bunnage and David Hamilton) has gained a reputation as the easiest and most accessible rock climb in the Karakoram. Graded British VS it has received seven or eight ascents in the last decade.

Beatrice is a 5,800m peak located on the north side of the Charaksa Valley in the Hushe region. The summit ridge is a rather narrow complex affair and has been reached once before by a young British team in 1988. Andy Bunnage and Bob Marks made the first ascent of the peak via the Diaper Couloir, a 1,000m D+ snow and ice gully on the south flank. There are several other spectacular granite walls and spires at the eastern end of the Charaksa Glacier, close to K7. These include TDK (The Dog's Knob), first climbed by Bob Marks and John Styles in 1988 and now sporting three or four separate routes to its summit. The North Ridge of the symmetrical pyramid of Nasa (first ascent in 1988 by Andy Bunnage and David Hamilton) has gained a reputation as the easiest and most accessible rock climb in the Karakoram. Graded British VS it has received seven or eight ascents in the last decade.