SHISPER PEAK 7,611 M (24970 ft) EXPEDITION

 

Location: Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.
Range: Karakoram.
Coordinatetes: 36°26.4′N 74°40.9′E
First Ascent: July 21, 1974 by H. Bleicher, L. Cichy, M. Grochowski, J. Holnicki-Szulc, 
A. Mlynarczyk, H. Oberhofer, J. Poreba
Easiest Route: Rock/Snow/Ice Climb

Shisper is one of the high peaks of the Batura Muztagh, which is the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram Range. Alternate forms of the name of this peak are Shisper Sar and Shisparé Sar.
Climbing began in the Batura Muztagh later than in other parts of the Karakoram. Shisper was the first major peak in the range to be successfully climbed, in 1974, by the "Polish-German Academic Expedition" under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab. The ascent took 35 days, and during preparations for a second group to try for the summit, one member of the expedition (Heinz Borchers) was killed in an avalanche.

The first ascent route followed the Passu Glacier to the East Ridge, between the Pasu and Ghulkin glaciers. (Note: this ridge goes southeast from the summit, turns northeast, and then turns roughly east, so it is called the "southeast ridge" and the "northeast ridge" in different sources.) Difficulties included a long ice ridge, and the access to the ridge required 1500m of fixed rope.

The next attempt was in 1989 by members of the Ryukoku University Alpine Club in Japan, led by Masato Okamoto. The group was on the mountain for almost two months, but was not able to summit; their high point was around 7,200 m (23,620 ft).

In 1994, a group from the Komono Alpine Club in Japan, led by Yukiteru Masui, achieved the second ascent of the peak. They reached Base Camp on June 18, and Masui, Kokubu, and Ozawa reached the summit on July 20. They followed the same route as the first ascent party and climbed in a similar style, with a similar amount of fixed rope.

Itinerary:

Days

Areas

Overnight

01 Arrival at Islamabad. Hotel
02 Departure for Chilas. Hotel
03 Departure for Karimabad. Hotel
04 Departure for Gulmit. Hotel
05 Trek across Ghulkin glacier via Borith Lake to Passu ghar.
Over night stay at Passu ghar.
Camp
06 Traverse Passu glacier to Luzhdar. Over night camping at Luzhdar. Camp
07 Trek to patundass. Over night camping at patundass. Camp
08 Trek to Shisper Peak Base Camp. Camp
09-28 Climbing Shisper Peak (7611m). Camp
29 Descend to Yunzben. Over night camping at Yunzben. Camp
30 Trek to Passu and drive to Gulmit. Over night stay at Gulmit. Hotel
31 Drive back to Gilgit. Hotel
32 Drive to Chilas. Hotel
33 Drive to Islamabad & then transfer to the Airport for destination Flight. - - -
Shisper Peak 7,611 M
Shisper Peak Hunza Pakistan
Shisper Peak , Batura Muztagh Range, Karakoram, Pakistan

 


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