CHOGOLISA PEAK 7,665 M


Other Names: K-4/Bride Peak
Rank: 36th highest in the World.
Altitude: 7,665m / 25,148 feet
Base Camp Altitude: 5,000m
Latitude: 35°– 21 N
Longitude: 76° – 20 E
Location: Vigne Glacier
First Ascent: August 2, 1975
First Climber: G.Ammerer and F.Pressl
Range: Karakoram
Ideal Duration: 45 Days
Best Time: June - August.


Chogolisa (or Bride Peak) is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa I) rises to 7,665 metres (25,148 ft). The second highest at 7,654 metres on the NE side (Chogolisa II) is the one named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892. In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498m from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a world altitude record.

Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SW ridge. Bad weather forced them to retreat and on June 27, Buhl fell through a cornice and disappeared. His body has never been found. In 1958, a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University led by T. Kawabara made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing M. Fujihira and K. Hirai on top. The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmuller. Koblmuller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety. 

Itinerary:

 

Days

Areas

Overnight

01 Arrival at Islamabad. Hotel
02 Briefing at Ministry of Tourism Hotel
03 Flight to Skardu or drive to Chilas. Hotel
04 Free Day at skardu or drive to Skardu. Hotel
05 Skardu- preparations. Hotel
06 Drive to Askole. Camp
07 Trek to Bardumal. Camp
08 Trek to Paiju  Camp
09 Trek to Urdukas. Camp
10 Trek to Goro II. Camp
11 Trek to Vigne Glacier. Camp
12 Trek to Base Camp. Camp
13-35 ACCLIMATIZATION AND CLIMBING ACTIVITIES. Camp
36 Trek back to Goro II. Camp
37 Trek to Pajju. Camp
38 Trek to koroforng. Camp
39 Trek to Askoli. Camp
40 Drive to Skardu. Hotel
41 Skardu - relax at Skardu. Hotel
41 Flight to Islamabad or drive to Chilas . Hotel
43 Rest day at Islamabad or drive to Islamabad. Hotel
44 Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism. Hotel
45 Departure from Pakistan.
Hushe Rock Climbing
Hushe Rock Climbing
Bridal/Chogolisa Peak

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