MUZTAGH ATA (7,545 M) EXPEDITION

Muztagh Ata is the second-highest of the mountains, which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. It is also referred to as part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically, it is more closely connected to the Pamir. Muztagh Ata is also known as one of the most accessible 7,000 m peaks globally to climb due to Xingjian's comparatively drier weather and its gentle western slope.

Muztagh Ata is situated south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan, together with these peaks they form a somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and separate from the Pamir Mountains to the west. Both these peaks are regarded as being in the "Chinese Pamir" and are more closely connected to the leading Pamir group than the main Kunlun group. Not far to the east and north of this group are the Taklamakan Desert and lowlands Tarim Basin. The mighty Karakorum Highway passes very close to both peaks.

In 1894, geographer Sven Hedin and a Swedish explorer made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata. Several other attempts were made in 1900, 1904, and 1947. A very professional team made the last attempt of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman. Their summit was unsuccessful though they came very close to the summit but were turned back due to heavy snow and extremely cold weather.

The first ascent of the peak was made in 1956 by Chinese and Russian climbers via the west ridge, this route has now became the standard route for the summit.

Since then, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been successful. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). In 2000, the first ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made.