ULTAR SAR (7,788 M) EXPEDITION

 

Ultar Sar is also known as Ultar, Ultar II, and Bojohagur Duanasir II. The most major peak of the Batura Muztagh from the southeastern part is a subrange of the Karakorum Range. It is situated 10 km northeast from Karim Abad, a town in Hunza valley nearby Karakorum Highway in Gilgit Baltistan.


In July 1996, two separate Japanese expeditions from Japan made the first ascent. The first one was from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club led by Akito Yamazaki. He successfully summited the peak, but he died during the descent, and Ken Takahashi led the second expedition.


The first summit team members were Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka. They climbed the Ultar from the southwest in alpine style, climbing at night to avoid falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced intense storms and bivouacked several days without food before returning to base camp.


The second summit team included Takahashi with four other members Masayuki Ryushi Hoshino, Ando, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge of the Ultar Peak. There have been no recorded ascents of the peak since 1996.

Itinerary:

Days

Areas

Overnight

01 Arrive at Islamabad transfer to hotel. Hotel
02 Drive to Chilas by Karakorum highway 11-12hrs Hotel
03 Drive to Karimabad 5-6hrs Hotel
04 Drive to Shahabad jeep 1hs and trek to Shamir Harar Camp
05 Trek to Bath Bakor 4-5hrs Camp
06 Trek to Ultar Peak base Camp
07-36 29 days for climb Camp
37 Trek down to Bath Bakor Camp
38 Trek down to Shahabad and drive to Karimabad Hotel
39 Free day in Karimabad Hotel
40 Drive back to Besham 9-10hrs Hotel
41 Drive to Islamabad 6-7hrs Hotel
42 Transfer to Islamabad airport for International flight. - - -
Ultar Sar 7,788 M Karakoram Pakistan
Ultar Sar 7,788 M Karakoram Pakistan
Ultar Sar 7,788 M Karakoram Pakistan

 


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