ULTAR SAR (7,788 M) EXPEDITION

Ultar Sar is also known as Ultar, Ultar II, and Bojohagur Duanasir II. The most major peak of the Batura Muztagh from the southeastern part is a subrange of the Karakorum Range. It is situated 10 km northeast from Karim Abad, a town in Hunza valley nearby Karakorum Highway in Gilgit Baltistan.

In July 1996, two separate Japanese expeditions from Japan made the first ascent. The first one was from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club led by Akito Yamazaki. He successfully summited the peak, but he died during the descent, and Ken Takahashi led the second expedition.

The first summit team members were Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka. They climbed the Ultar from the southwest in alpine style, climbing at night to avoid falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced intense storms and bivouacked several days without food before returning to base camp.

The second summit team included Takahashi with four other members Masayuki Ryushi Hoshino, Ando, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge of the Ultar Peak. There have been no recorded ascents of the peak since 1996.