k7 PEAKS (6,935 M) EXPEDITION

This peak is situated in the Saltoro and Masherbrum ranges. The nearby glaciers are Kaberi and Charakusa. Possible route to the peak is from Khapulo in Baltistan through Tagas, Dumsum and Kaberi glacier. Some maps show its height as 6,934m, while others show it as 6,935m.

It was in 1955 that members of Harvard Mountaineering Club Karamoram Expedition examined K-7 peak with a view to climbing it. In 1976, an eight member strong expedition of Fukuoka Climbing Club expedition from Japan tried their cluck on this peak. It however failed because of shortage of time. In 1977, the Japan Asia University Karakoram Expedition led by Nabue Sakamoto attempted the peak from its west face through Charakusa glacier but was unsuccessful. The party consisted of 12 members. Its climbing leader was Hiroshi Ishkikawa. In 1982, another Japanese party called Hosho expedition, led by Masayoki Hoshina attempted the peak again from Charakusa glacier. This six member expedition could reach 6,096m.

Again in 1984, an Australian expedition of Roddy Mackenzie, which consisted of four persons, tried its luck on the peak, but could not climb it. In the same year the Japan Ski Alpine Club expedition of T. Nagata which consisted of eight persons also tried to climb the peak. Three of its members reached the top on 8th August. Next day, the leader and two other members also reached the peak. Earlier, the party set up five camps and a base camp on Charakusa glacier.